BellaOnline Forums Hobbies and Crafts Knitting top down sweaters

thanks for your article about top down sweaters. I enjoy making top down sweaters and would like to try to design one with more pattern to it like a fisherman knit. they are so great to knit and the reglan sleeves fit in perfectly also the fact that there is no sewing up of seams when your done your done. thanks once again for telling me about a new book that I don't have. I hope some people who haven't made one will try at least a baby one to see how nice they finish and maybe move on to a larger one. thanks knitpick

I'm glad you like my article, I'm going to review Barbara Walker's Knitting from the Top next which I think is even better than this one because it covers so many different things. It also gives a lot of guidance on using patterns in these sweaters so you may well find help there which isn't in the Carron book. You might like to consider buying it if you don't have it.

yes I have her book and will be very interested in reading your review.

I once again, became interested in trying knitting from the top down, through this forum so started with an online pattern by Carole Barenys called Knitting Pattern for Baby Raglan Sweater. BellaOnline ALERT: Raw URLs are not allowed in these forums for security reasons. Please use UBB code. If you don't know how to do UBB code just post here for help - we will help out!

Actually, i've made her pattern several times in different yarns. I like using Debbie Bliss Cashmerino the best... it's a great baby yarn because it's natural but washable! Lately i've been writing my own version of this sweater because i find the neck a little tight and the instructions don't properly account for different sizes (it tells you how much longer to knit for the 6-12 month size before putting the sleeves on holders, but does NOT tell you to adjust the buttonholes so that they will be at regular intervals!!! Be aware of this if you make the larger size and do your own math first!).

Here is a suggestion about using dps (double points): Keep in mind, that though you will be using four needles and have eight points, you are only focusing on two points at a time! YAY!!! And in that respect, it is exactly like the knitting you've been doing all along! It's one of those things that LOOKS intimidating, but it's not that hard.

You will put the stitches from your holder onto three of the needles, the fourth will be used to work it. Work on the near side of the triangle, so you are seeing the right side of the garment and not the purl side. (If you get confused about where to start knitting at any time, the stitch to knit is never the stitch where your yarn strand is attatched, but always the stitch just to the left of that one.) I prefer dividing the stitches onto the needles so that each needle has a multiple of four stitches, which makes it easier to stay on track when you get to doing the 2x2 ribbing at the cuff. Basically, you just keep going around and around in a spiral. It sounds a LOT more complicated describing it than it really is. You'll do fine!

Trouble shooting: IF you knit a few rounds and find that you are getting visible streaks between the needles (and most people don't get this problem), it is easily corrected by just making the first stitch extra tight as you begin each new needle. Also, keep an eye out at first that you don't add stitches between needles by accident. Beginners to dps sometimes get an accidental yarn over between needles that they knit the next time they go around (thus increasing stitches and leaving a hole)... so if you get a funny looking little hole between needles... count your stitches first and if you have an extra, drop the stitch directly above the hole to get rid of it and then even out the tension by using your free needle to poke the yarn around to fill the gap.

When you use dpns to begin a project... like in mittens or socks (this will not be an issue for your current project)... then you have to be careful when you join the needles to knit the first round, that you do not twist the cast on row. If you twist it, you start making a garment that has no inside or outside! LOL. You soon discover it but by the time you do there is nothing for it but to rip out and begin again. To avoid the twist, i suggest casting on, dividing the stitches between needles, and then setting them on the table in a triangle with the "ridge" part of the cast on completely in the middle of the triangle. Then just carefully pick up the two points you'll be using and knit, and you'll avoid a twist.

There are actually two versions of that top down baby raglan pattern by Carol Barenys... i have also done the older one which is no longer up on the internet. They have very slight differences... extra stitches at the shoulder increases for the newer one, and the older version has seed stitch at the button hole edges instead of ribbing. Both work equally well.

Are you going to post a picture of it when you finish it?

Hi these are all great suggestions. If I might very respectfully add a little extra, I too absolutely detest working with four double points and nowadasy nearly always use a long circular needle to magic loop my way along small pieces. I knit all my socks this way and find it very successful.

www.knittinghelp.com has excellent instructions on how to do the Magic Loop method.

I would also suggest trying using two circular needles if you find Magic Loop difficult, it's well worth experimenting with different methods of knitting in the round till you find the way you like.

Another factor to consider is your yarn and the type of needles you are using - if it's a smooth rather slippery yarn you might want to consider using bamboo needles rather than aluminium ones which can be rather slippery.

Ladders when knitting with DPNs (double-pointed needles) aren't uncommon. I had them all the time when I was first learning to knit in the round. According to this article at Knitty.com, there are at least four ways to avoid ladders:

• The best way: Make it a habit to tighten things up when moving from one needle to the next by giving the yarn a tug after working the first and second stitches.
• Using a set of 5 needles rather than 4 will divide tension more evenly, keeping strain off of the stitches themselves.
• If you're still having trouble, knitting a couple of stitches forward from the next needle onto the one you've just finished with will shift the point of tension, thus helping to keep a vertical line from forming.
• Inserting the working needle under the previous needle as shown below will help you make a tighter stitch than if you come at it from above.

I use a set of 5 DPNs, tighten stitches between needles, and I never begin or end a needle with the same stitch twice -- I just keep shifting all the stitches around & around & around.