The only true French vines left are in South America, the Malbec vines that were transplanted there before the Franco-US exchange. Get hold of a nice Argentinian Malbec and you will, oddly enough, be tasting a true French wine. Delish!
I believe you are thinking of Chile. Chile is the only country that doesn't have to graft onto rootstock since the phylloxera louse hasn't (so far) managed to cross the Andes.
There are pockets of ungrafted vines elsewhere, especially where vines are planted in sandy soil which seems to defer the louse. There is even an ungrafted vineyard in Champagne.