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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 280
Shark
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Shark
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 280
i think you're turning ME into a betta nut! <img src="/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> i'm really considering turning the 10gl tank i have laying around into a segmented one like yours.


ENJOY!! <img src="/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

~ mel
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,781
Chipmunk
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Chipmunk
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,781
Oh Mel...DO it !! LOL!

I just made a 5 gallon into a divided tank and have 3 of my best fry in there. My ultimate best of the best has the middle slot! He's gorgeous!! Just wish I could post a pic of him. He has HUGE crowntail fins and his caudel fin is almost a full circle, though he isn't a halfmoon, he comes darn close! His dorsel is also wide and full. I have a female that is colored very similar to him...dark dark steel blue with black fin edging which flows down the rays. Can't wait to see what that pairing brings.

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 280
Shark
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Shark
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 280
tell you what, if i find another 2.5gl (i now have two), i'll split one for fish and uae the last for an amphibian tank of sorts. right now i'm using my 10gl tank for fresh water.


ENJOY!! <img src="/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

~ mel
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2
Heya, Im new here lol... and I'm just posting around to see if this is such a good idea.

I'm cleaning out a 20 long tank. Once that's done I plan on redoing the substrate to sand (the stuff that only maintains ph, doesn't change it) on top of a layer of eco-complete, installing a DIY co2 system, adding live plants, and adding a new submersible filter so I can have the water a couple inches below the top of the tank (to eliminate the possibility of a frog somehow finding a way through a glass top completely covering the tank, minus holes that allow for circulation of air).

Now my questions are:

1) What kinds of plants should I be growing for ADFs that aren't too invasive?

2) The only tankmates for these ADFs would be a pair of ottos for cleanup. How many ADFs would be ideal for a 20long tank? I'm planning on understocking it quite a bit (I made the mistake of overstocking when I first began, which led to more tanks, lol) However, I do want a decent sized group of these guys (5+ is what I'm hoping for =)

3) Will these guys do ok with sand? I ask this because of my experiences with Fire-bellied toads. One of them had swallowed sand, which formed a bowel impaction, which the poor guy later died from.

4) Is a heater safe for ADFs? I have one in there now, and was planning on leaving it in there for the ottos, but if it isn't safe for them, I'll just get an ancistrus pleco (If I can find one, they're pretty hard to find in my area).

5) Behavior. What should I be expecting the first days these guys are in their new home? What should I be expecting once these guys are all settled in?

6) Are plants required for these guys? I know live plants are better, but they cost a TON (new, more powerful lighting ($60), the co2 tank and system ($60-70), special substrate ($20), the plants themselves ($30), may as well buy another tank...)

I've learned my lesson on impulse buying, so now I do all the research I can before bringing home pets lol

Any help is greatly appreciated =D

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,781
Chipmunk
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Chipmunk
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,781
Great idea HV about doing the research before diving in..lol ! (if I had known how adictive bettas are, I may have thought twice about caving to my daughter's pleads :rolleyes: )

I"m sorry that I can't give you much info on the ADFs...I have a couple myself and they seem to be doing very well..but I really don't know that much about them. I concentrate mostly on the bettas. There may be someone else in this forum that knows more about them than I do, but here is a link with some info, perhaps you can find something helpful there. <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

http://www.pipidae.net/david/

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 589
Gecko
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Gecko
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 589
High Voltage,
Your thoughts are way past my experience. I have 2 ADFs right now, in different tanks. I discovered when trying to feed Froggle's oto that the ADF loves algae disks. No wonder the poor oto starved. :angel: He was floating in the tank this morning, and Froggle was very chubby. :rolleyes:


Hi, my name is Nannynan, and I'm a betta addict.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 589
Gecko
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Gecko
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Posts: 589
I have learned that the other ADF I have in Pinky's former tank also likes the algae disks. He's a tiny little guy - very cute, almost black. Froggle is more gray/brown, and is very active since the oto died. I think he didn't like the frog bites I was feeding him.


Hi, my name is Nannynan, and I'm a betta addict.
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 280
Shark
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Shark
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 280
welcome High Voltage! i think i can answer a few of your questions.

1st .:
ADFs can pretty much be with most plants. however, when planning for plants, the things you really need to be concerned about are PH, temperature, light and nutrient compatabilty. i mean, it's not gonna work out if you have some plants that need alot of light, low temps, lots of nutrients, can only be partially submersed and high PH mixed with ADFs that need moderate temps and low to moderate light, middle-of-the-road PH just for example.

from experience and research, also have to be carefule about which plants are being sold in stores. i have found that many plants being sold as aquarium planting, fully submersed are actually not suited at all for aquariums. unless you're a pro at planted aquariums, it is really hard to keep these "false" aquarium plants alive, let alone thriving.

for example i was captured by the beauty of some Aluminum plant cuts i saw at the LFS. took them home only to find out i was duped. despite efforts, they died after 2 weeks. Aluminum plants are NOT to be fully submersed, it's a very pretty plant that grows in seasonal marshes. places that get flooded for short periods of time.

do alot of research. keeping an eye out for plants that will not only be compatible with your ADF's care requirements, but also match your level of care commitment and skill. not to forget visual appeal. try some of these sites, they were helpful to me, a newbie to aquarium planting. <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Aquatic Plant FAQs
Aquarium Plants for the Student Bedget Light requirements for Aquatic Plants
these are just a few to get an idea.

2nd .:
i would say for tank mates, again keep in mind compatibility to ADF car requirements, over stocking, species' general behavior and rule of thumb - if the frog fits, they will eat it.

3 .:
i have been seeing some forum posts about sand digestion and ADFs. alot of mixed opions and health concerns. since you're not new to ADFs, your familiar with their fedding techniques. they hunt, snapping mouth agaped. they have no tongues.

anyways, because of this method it is not uncommon that an ADF may accidentally snatch up a peppble or bit-O-sand. in the wild this too occurs and is passed through if bits are small enough. aware of this, some ADF owners use fine grain sand. seems to make sense to me, although there are many reports of sand digestion to also cause compaction problems resulting in death.

if you really would like to use sand as substrate for the plants, i might suggest a thin layer of pepples (or whatever) on top of the sand. remember to keep the size of pepples just large enough to not be easily swallowed, nor too large and deffinitely not sharp. ADF skin is fragile.

4 .:
heaters are great for ADFs since they prefer a comfy 76F - 80F temps. i have used both glass tube heater (adjustable temp control) and plastic/rubber encased (non adjustable) heaters with my ADF. my ADF preferred the glass one, as she would cozy up to the suction cups to sleep sometimes. generally i think most heaters are fine for ADFs, unless you've got unstable decorations that might break a glass tube heater. honestly, if you're really concerned about ADFs getting burned, i would go for a wire floor heater setup. it goes on the bottom of the tank before you add substrate. it is also observed that this sort of heater setup is greatly beneficial to plant root growth.

5 .:
for your question on behavior. i would suggest holding off adding ADFs until all plants are planted and tank has cycled. this gives the plants time to adjust, begin healthy growth and actively growing plants aid alot in the cycle process by absorbing nitrites/nitrates as nutrients. once the plants stabalize themselves they will also speed things up with oxygen production.
so, when everything has cycled, stabalized and growing nicely, you decide to slowly acclimate the ADFs... you should keep in mind that just like us, they have their own personalities. generally though, the first few days might be stressful for them so i would expect skittishness, loss of appetite and alot of hiding. it's been suggested to have at least one tank side a backdrop, helps to relax them and i wouldn't constantly peer into tank checking on them for 2 days.

after a few days to a week, i would expect the ADFs to be hungry and begin to feel safe in their new home. maybe they'll explore the new place, new tank mates, socialise and whatever else ADFs do.

other things i read that aid in ADF relaxation/stress relief are things like having tank location where there's no loud noise, frequent on/off of lights, heavy traffic (say a living/family room where parties or kids are frequent). i learned this myself, my poor ADF stopped greeting me and would hide almost all the time when i moved the tank from corner bar area to kitchen counter (counter seperated living room hub from kitchen).

deffinitely NO bumping or tapping the tank, even if you think one might be dead. keep hands out of tank for the first week while they adjust, amphibians have delicate systems and when stressed can easily get sick.

something else i recently read that i thought was cool. amphibians need colour. interestingly enough researchers/herpatology enthusists observed that amphibians need a multicoloured environment. too much of any one colour affects their emotional health. in some cases may lead to breeding problems as well as behaviors associated with anxiety disorders, depression and other such neurosies.

dunno, perhaps this is all part of the camoflauge they developed to better the chances of survival. so when in captivity a lack of colour/patterns creates stress, a kind of instinct to be aware that they stand out like a sore thumb. easy pickings for a predator. that's just my opion.

6 .:
i don't think live plants are a necessary. of course they're benificial, nicer, more "homey" for the tank, but many hobbyists use silk plants instead. what they deffinitely need are places to hide in when they feel insecure or ill, specially so if you're using a light. they also need shady spots, adequate (but gentle) air circulation and very clean environment.

and as for those price quotes for plants you mentioned, i think that's a serious rip off. you can find plants for as little as $2 in most major pet store chains. yes, they're not the best of quality but better than nothing.

hope all of this (yes, i knnow it's alot) helps you and others.


ENJOY!! <img src="/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

~ mel
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 24
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Joined: Nov 2004
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Hi, I just got two African Dwarf Frogs yesterday (we called them Siegfried and Roy) and have been doing all the things we've read about as well as following the care instructions from the place we bought them from. Their tank was fine but today we purchased a small rock cave (which they really like) and another plastic plant to give them more things to hide behind. They have a bottom gravel filter system (is that what you call it?) but there are now a lot of small bubbles on the surface. It wasn't too bad yesterday and today until we added the extra things in the tank and I made sure to wash everything thoroughly (no soap, just water) prior to putting them in there. There is a wee bit of food that is at the bottom of their tank which I put in earlier today for them (they don't seem to interested in food right now - although one of the boys ate a skin he'd shedded (yech, wasn't expecting that quite so early on LOL) so not sure if it's the food or what the deal is. I added a few drops (per the directions) of a chemical that helps wit the water (removing chlorine etc) yesterday and like I said, aside from that, everything's fine so am curious as to why it's so bubbly all of a sudden and if this is dangerous or will dissipate on it's own.

Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 24
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Posts: 24
Oh, my other question (if this isn't the right thread to post please let me know <img src="/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> ) ) is: how often do you clean the gravel to remove waste, skin and importantly, uneaten food? The person at the pet store said do it every two weeks but I've heard others say more frequently etc. She also said to remove about 1/4 of the water every two weeks when cleaning it but I should leave the guys in there when I clean. I'd rather put them in a kind of holding tank while I clean and would welcome comments on this. Again, if this isn't the right thread please re-direct me. Thanks a million.

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