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I have heard two different versions about the Cherokee Tear Dress.

One version is that the dress originated from the Trail of Tears and the dresses the women were given to wear.

Another version is when the first Cherokee contestant who won the Miss Cherokee Contest had no dress to wear for the final and her Aunties took a dress that was much too large for the young woman and tore the fabric into rectangles and squares then fashioned a dress to fit the young woman.

Do you know the correct version/history of the Cherokee Tear Dress?

Here's what I was told -
On the Trail of Tears, anything which could be used as a weapon was confiscated by the troops. This included knives and scissors. It took a Long Time to walk from the Southeast to OK! To make dresses, the women had to tear (rip) the cloth into usuable strips. They were allowed to keep their sewing needles, but didn't have thread for finished edges on the torn cloth strips. The strips were joined with tight stitches with the frayed edges out. When you see some Tear Dresses, it looks like they are being worn inside-out.

When dancers line up for Grand Entry there is a specific order for each group. This varies somewhat between events and depends upon the traditions of the Arena Director. For the women, those in buckskin are first by age, followed by trade wool dresses(not many of those down here in the South) then those in cotton cloth dresses. The younger Fancy/Shawl dancers are last.

Even though the Tear Dress is made of cotton, it is an Honored Regalia, with a special place in the Grand Entry line-up. Another Honored Regalia for women is the Jingle Dress. Phyllis, pardon me for being a little off-topic, but your article on Jingle Dresses is too good not to share.
Legend of the Jingle Dress and Dance

These are very popular in the humid north too, heck I have a blank that I wear least 3x a week on a regular basis.


There is a woman on facebook that I follow named No Moccasins. here is a link to her article about the Tear Dress.
[url= http://www.facebook.com/notes/no-moccasins/more-tear-dress-as-to-rip-info/219384194768212]Tear (as if to rip) Dress Info[/url]

(ugh @ ubb code)

That's a good article. Thanks for sharing it.

Tear (as if to rip) Dress Info]More Tear (as if to rip) dress info

I found a Fact Sheet (actually as long and detailed as a thesis) written by Wendell Cochran. He is a Master Craftsman and received the designation of National Living Treasure by the Western Cherokee. I am not a seamstress by any measure, so most of the sewing details were well over my head. But the story of the last known Tear Dress being found and recreated was very informational.
The Cherokee Tear Dress Facts
This one also includes Ms. Stroud's account in Part II. I got to thinking today and realized I haven't seen a Tear Dress with the frayed edges out in many years. I wonder if that is one of the "traditional" patterns Mr. Cochran is less than pleased with.

well you know, opinions are like "butts", everyone's got one.

Yup! We all got one of those. Welcome back, Wendy. It is good to have you here.

The information you provided, Jane, is very interesting and helpful. I think I will make my doll's dress with the original method of the frayed seams on the outside.

Thanks for the links.

Well I can't say the dresses with the frayed edges on the outside are the "Tradition" or "Original" Tear Dress. There are probably as many variations to this as with the Jingle Dress Legend.

When I heard this version, I was at a gathering and a lovely lady's dress was being described. It made sense to me then, and stayed with me.

I haven't had time but for a quick review of Mr. Cochran's "thesis." I didn't see any mention of this, but it was nice to read about the cut-through cloth decorations.

The Cherokee of Georgia have a particular cotton dress that is trademarked. It includes this technique in a diamond pattern. I'll see if I can get a photo of one at the next monthly meeting to post.

I guess for the tiny doll dress, the frayed edges would be a little too much, too busy looking. I will have to study some pictures and read Mr. Cochran's thesis again.

I would love to make one for myself. Long dresses and skirts are my favorite style of clothing.

you could always trim the edges super short....and applique those pieces to a whole skirt so that if they fall apart the skirt itself will still have integrity