BellaOnline Forums Health and Fitness Belly Dancing Authentic Medieval Bally Dance Attire

Hello Everyone,

I am part of a living history group and I am researching authentic Raqs Sharqi (bellydance) attire for the period of approximately 900-1200 CE in middle eastern countries (arabia, turkey, etc).

Thus far I am disappointed with the many many websites I have examined as people seem to trend towards modern "showgirl" costumes or modern tribal costumes that are merely influenced by athentic styles and do not truly represent actual historical costume.

Thus far I have come to the conclusion that an authentic costume would consist of "harem" pants, a split skirt and a tassle belt. A long sleeved shirt in the style of harem pants, a tight vest over top (both showing the belly) and a long "jacket" with the bottom split to the waist and done up the middle to cover the belly.

My sources are a number of photos taking parts from various existing costumes and research into each piece. For example, I can not wear a choli as it is said to be underwear worn under clothing such as a sari and is hence inappropriate for an authentic medieval costume.

I am still researching my sources - especially with things such as tassle belt designs so diverse - in order to ensure as close to authentic as possible. To show how authentic I want to go - I will be constructing my costumes out of linen and making all my own tassles and embroidery with pure wool and glass beads. Only materials that would have been available in the period specified.

If anyone has some sources they could direct me to in order to further my research, I would greatly appreciate a reply to this thread!

Our group's time period is already a lot smaller than the SCA and the purpose for this costume is a side line from my usual character. Generally I am a viking woman and am making my second apron dress from reconstructions from Finland.

I would like the belly dancing costume to wear just as something a bit different and because I am going to be starting belly dancing next month and do not wish to wear the glitzy stuff.

More specific? 1050 sounds great for a time and my boyfriend says that Turkey is probably the go, but I am open to suggestion. What I really want to do with this costume is find something that I like and feel I would be comfortable wearing and dancing in and then look at the history. I also want some element of sensuality in it for my boyfriend to enjoy.

I will see if I can find a couple of images from other places that I have been looking at and I wonder if you can tell me if these things are appropriate and then some historical sources if you can. It would be a great help.

My biggest disappointment so far is that I think the long coat - a ghawazee coat? - is actually much later period. Am I wrong?

The following links contain the culmination of my costume decisions from my research so far.

This is the only decent line art I have found:
[url=BellaOnline ALERT: For anti-spam reasons, we restrict the number of URLs allowed in a given post. You have exceeded our maximum number of URLs.

OK...lemme do some diggin.......

*~Asmina~*

Thats much appreciated Asmina

here is a nice sewing pattern design,
http://simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?designId=10335&design=5359

This pattern could be a jump off point for your project, embellish and adapt.

Well it is now November and I still have not stopped my quest.

Ipanema, thankyou for your ideas, however from my research there are some fundamental mistakes in the pattern, as there usually are with patternised renaissance or medieval clothing. Just for others searching: The small corset has no historical basis, the chemise and vest are somewhat correct, the top is the wrong cut and the skirt is overly panneled and not split. The pants will be the wrong cut as they will be modernised and westernised. As part of a living history group its only worth is in looking at the pictures because the patterns are simply too different compared to what we know of medieval design.

Please don't let this stop you from helping me because I do follow all leads and suggestions.

I have just completed my pants and I hope to get a digital camera in the next month to start producing documentation.

After months of searching I found this last week which is another step closer to a completely documented costume for myself. http://www.turkishculture.org/clothing/folkloric56.html

I am still going in the direction of the turkish vest (entari) and a short chemise with a ghawazee coat as well as a complete costume from the picture linked in this message.

If anyone has any kuchi jewellery they would like to sell cheaply to an Australian then please contact me as well <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks again for all the help. Any further messages will get to me and I will follow them up <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Also any answers to the questions above will be appreciated, especially if you can supply references!!!!

I've been very pleased with the pieces I've bought from katriona_omaloney at www.ebay.com. She's a SCA member, so she doesn't make the caberet type outfits. She's made a couple of pieces that I specially ordered.

Hey Paula!
What style dance do you do?

You might want to look at www.mandalatribal.com.

Welcome to the forum ToyaS!

ANd I like your signature quote <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

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You may want to look at the patterns here: http://www.atirasfashions.com/pattern_page.html
I started belly dancing 16 yrs ago and Atira was round then when I did some sewing for myself and other dancers. I don't know how well researched the garments are, but pattern notes reference fabric types in vintage photos.

I have personally ordered and sewn the Marahvash's Turkish-Arab Vest, #11. It is described as a "form-fitting vest with keyhole neckline." It is bolero length. I'm glad I had some sewing experience in my background because I found that the garment edges look most finished if the top is fully lined then top stitched.

Good luck with your project!