Just wanted to drop a line with kudos for Jodi! I happened upon this site a month or so ago, and found her tutorial on ITMHP. Quite intrigued, I decided to print it out and keep it for future use. I had a chance to use it recently, although in a bit of an unorthodox way - I had made a batch of soap and added too much colored oil at trace (dumb move, but learning). After a couple of weeks, it was becoming obvious that this soap wasn't going to cure anytime soon. So I decided to try the ITMHP on my already cut bars. Needless to say, they sagged a bit during the process, but they are now hard and ready for use! Thank you very much for the tutorial, Jodi. This saved many, many weeks of curing! <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Mr. Rob <img src="/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

what is ITMHP? I'm assuming that the HP is Hot Process. Is this supposed to be "In The Mold Hot Process"?

what is ITMHP? I'm assuming that the HP is Hot Process. Is this supposed to be In The Mold Hot Process?

Yes, that is what ITMHP means. Jodi has a tutorial on this, if you're interested... <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Good luck!
Mr. Rob <img src="/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

ITMHP is also known as CPOP (Cold Process Oven Process). Same thing, just a different name. I have recently started CPOPing my soap, and have had wonderful results. One of the wonderful benefits to it is that you can use less FO than you normally would in a CP batch, I use about half my normal amounts. I've seen several people advise not CPOPing milk soaps, but I have done several gm batches with this method and have not had any problems.
Just my 2 cents!

Tara Anderson
Oregon Myst Body & Soul Creations
www.OregonMyst.com

For me, it's the only way to go. I am completely impatient and love having my CP soap ready to roll in 2 days.
I have used goats milk often with now problem. I have heard others say it makes a bad odor or burns a bit hotter....not sure, np here.

I haven't tried CPOP because a bath & body business owner said her customers didn't like it. I really couldn't understand what the problem was unless the bar got mushy faster or what. I decided I don't want to rush things and I can always test a batch of CPOP later myself against my CP batches to see if *I* see a difference, whether it's in texture, appearance, scent, or how it lasts. It seems like a wonderful way to thwart my lack of PATIENCE waiting to try a bar!

Also, I've not had any problem with GM either due to someone in the biz for about 10+ yrs telling me I could freeze it, also (I freeze my water). I freeze the gm and I'm ready to roll when the lye hits it. The first time I tried it I even tried an ice bath around the container and it never really got hot (enough). The problem that can happen with goatmilk is said to be the lye saponifying the fats IN the milk too quickly which is supposed to give it the icky orange globs and burned smell (that I have never experienced). I need to work on the soap coming out with a creamier color though. I was scenting it with lilac fragrance, a touch of blue ultramarine and pink oxide and that is totally NOT the color I got, so next GM batch will have NO color so I can get a better 'feel' for the batch.

The very first CP batch I ever did had no color or scent. I wanted to experience how the batch behaved *without* the addition of FO's that could make it seize, or colorants (because also having painted most of my life, knowing the base color is important to me). I was most pleased with my first batch. I remember it being Sandy Maine's basis in her book, 'The Natural Soap Book' as being olive oil, coconut oil and Crisco! It came a out a wonderful cream color with lots of long-lasting suds, no smell, and very cleansing yet mild on my skin.